Notes for a Young Surfer

This complex look at surf culture explores its inherent masculinity, as well as the violence, racism, misogyny, turf wars, and homophobia that are as much a part of the sport as ocean swells. Both a touching memoir and a sharp social critique, this analysis reveals the unwritten codes that rule all aspects of a surfer’s life—from body image and national identity to politics and friendship—and the issues that have imprinted themselves on Australian beaches since the Cronulla riots.