{"product_id":"9789813228399","title":"Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAll chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIn terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cb\u003eContents:\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIntroduction\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInteraction of Wind and Ocean Waves\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpectral Properties of Ocean Waves\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStatistical Properties of Ocean Waves\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eProperties of Breaking Waves\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePrediction of Waves in Deep Water\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePrediction of Waves in Shallow Water\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFreak Waves\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTsunami\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWaves at Islands and Coral Reefs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWaves in Mangrove Forests\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous Bottom\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWave Observations and Long-Term Statistics\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWave Measurement Techniques\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eData Processing and Simulation Techniques\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eReadership:\u003c\/b\u003e Graduate students, professionals and researchers, including marine research specialist, in ocean and coastal engineering and oceanography.\u003cbr\u003e","brand":"World Scientific Publishing Company, Incorporated","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47185280794864,"sku":"9789813228399","price":76.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/7593\/9824\/files\/9789813228399_p0.jpg?v=1763690586","url":"https:\/\/shop-qa.barnesandnoble.com\/products\/9789813228399","provider":"Barnes \u0026 Noble (DEV)","version":"1.0","type":"link"}