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The Feasts of Autolycus

The Feasts of Autolycus

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CONTENTS.


PAGE
THE VIRTUE OF GLUTTONY, 9

A PERFECT BREAKFAST, 17

TWO BREAKFASTS, 25

THE SUBTLE SANDWICH, 33

A PERFECT DINNER, 43

AN AUTUMN DINNER, 51

A MIDSUMMER DINNER, 59

TWO SUPPERS, 67

ON SOUP, 75

THE SIMPLE SOLE, 89

BOUILLABAISSE, 97

THE MOST EXCELLENT OYSTER, 105

THE PARTRIDGE, 117

THE ARCHANGELIC BIRD, 125

SPRING CHICKEN, 135

THE MAGNIFICENT MUSHROOM, 143

THE INCOMPARABLE ONION, 155

THE TRIUMPHANT TOMATO, 171

A DISH OF SUNSHINE, 179

ON SALADS, 191

THE SALADS OF SPAIN, 205

THE STIRRING SAVOURY, 215

INDISPENSABLE CHEESE, 223

A STUDY IN GREEN AND RED, 231

A MESSAGE FROM THE SOUTH, 239

ENCHANTING COFFEE, 249




THE VIRTUE OF GLUTTONY


Gluttony is ranked with the deadly sins; it should be honoured among
the cardinal virtues. It was in the Dark Ages of asceticism that
contempt for it was fostered. Selfish anchorites, vowed to dried dates
and lentils, or browsing Nebuchadnezzar-like upon grass, thought by
their lamentable example to rob the world of its chief blessing.
Cheerfully, and without a scruple, they would have sacrificed beauty
and pleasure to their own superstition. If the vineyard yielded wine
and the orchard fruit, if cattle were sent to pasture, and the forest
abounded in game, they believed it was that men might forswear the
delights thus offered. And so food came into ill repute and foolish
fasting was glorified, until a healthy appetite passed for a snare of
the devil, and its gratification meant eternal damnation. Poor deluded
humans, ever so keen to make the least of the short span of life
allotted to them!

With time, all superstitions fail; and asceticism went the way of many
another ingenious folly. But as a tradition, as a convention, somehow,
it lingered longer among women. And the old Christian duty became a
new feminine grace. And where the fanatic had fasted that his soul
might prove comelier in the sight of God, silly matrons and maidens
starved, or pretended to starve, themselves that their bodies might
seem fairer in the eyes of man. And dire, indeed, has been their
punishment. The legend was that swooning Angelina or tear-stained
Amelia, who, in company, toyed tenderly with a chicken wing or
unsubstantial wafer, later retired to the pantry to stuff herself with
jam and pickles. And thus gradually, so it is asserted, the delicacy
of women's palate was destroyed; food to her perverted stomach was but
a mere necessity to stay the pangs of hunger, and the pleasure of
eating she looked upon as a deep mystery, into which only man could be
initiated.
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